Fine Dining	A Fresh Twist on an Old Favorite: O'Connell's Hourglass by Arthur Page

Front: Frenched milk-fed veal chop served with truffle risotto and finished with Point Reyes blue cheese demi glace. Back right: Seared Hudson Valley foie gras over baby greens with sweet onion and pancetta vinaigrette.

(photo: Rose Mattrey)

It was with no small amount of trepidation that I accepted the assignment to review O’Connell’s Hourglass at 981 Kenmore Ave.

Not only was the Hourglass Restaurant, operated by Terry Bechakas for more than 35 years until it closed earlier this year, one of the best restaurants in Buffalo, it was one of my personal favorites. I also have very warm feelings for Bechakas and his wife, Eras, who made the Hourglass’ wonderful desserts.

The “new” Hourglass, as designated by its name, is a business partnership involving Kevin O’Connell, WGRZ-TV chief weather anchor; his wife, Carolyn, their son, Kevin, Jr.—who is executive chef—and his wife, Kathleen.

By adopting the “Hourglass” name, the O’Connells have set the bar high for themselves. Not only have they opened in a space previously occupied by a successful restaurant, but they have to live up to a “brand” that is synonymous with a fine-dining experience.

The good news I have to report is that even though only open for a month, O’Connell’s Hourglass is doing a great job. Not only did we enjoy an excellent meal last Wednesday, but the restaurant appears to be attracting clientele of the former Hourglass. Kevin O’Connell, Sr., dropped by during his dinner break at Channel 2 and talked to each group of patrons. Our server, Steven, was very attentive. I overheard two customers say it was their second visit within a week. Now there’s an endorsement.

The restaurant, still anchored by its rounded bar, has been updated. A new paint job—the walls are a warm brown—new lighting and fewer tables than previously filled the dining area make the space look “new.”

What’s more important—as was the case previously—is the high quality of the food. However, there’s a new twist. There’s an owner in the kitchen and Kevin O’Connell, Jr. has stepped up to the plate very impressively. O’Connell learned his trade in the kitchens of the Left Bank, the old Dakota Grill, the former Danny Ocean’s and Falletta’s before operating with his wife a restaurant called Indigo in Great Falls, Montana. At the Hourglass, he is assisted in the kitchen by sous chef Peter Monaco, formerly of Siena.

Our meal began very impressively with two outstanding appetizers. The guest took one bite of his pan-seared fois gras ($19), an evening special, and christened it “the appetizer of the year.” The two slices of duck liver were served over baby spinach dressed with warm bacon/sweet onion vinaigrette. The flavor was very subtle, the consistency was like butter. Its price surpassed that of two of the entrées on the menu, but the guest savored the experience.

I loved my appetizer, Virginia clams with spicy chorizo sausage, chopped tomato and fresh herbs “finished” with roasted garlic and white wine broth ($11). Three cheers for O’Connell for taking steamed mollusks to a new level. The dozen or so clams, ample slices of sausage and accompanying crusty bread to absorb the delicious broth could be a meal unto itself.

The other evening appetizer special was cornmeal-crusted skate wing with Creole aioli ($14). Appetizers on the regular menu include warm water lobster and white prawn bisque with goat cheese crouton ($7), confit of Hudson Valley duck leg and wild mushroom strudel finished with aged tawny port sauce ($13), Alaskan crab cakes on a bed of baby spinach dressed with saffron and pickle aioli ($13) and a nice vegetarian option: double ripe brie and artichoke au gratin served with grilled crostini and fresh tomato salad ($10).

All entrées are accompanied by a salad—O’Connell says he’s never seen the logic in charging extra for a salad. Prior to my entrée, I enjoyed the house salad of field greens served with slices of sweet strawberries and dressed with a strawberry/Chardonnay vinaigrette made with fresh mint. The dressing on the guest’s Caesar salad, which included anchovies and chopped tomatoes, had just enough oomph.

For my entrée, I selected the baked monkfish topped with roasted red peppers, wrapped with prosciutto and finished with aged balsamic vinegar and basil oil ($26). It was excellent and, again, O’Connell added a new twist to prosciutto-wrapped fish by tucking in the red peppers.

Other items on the menu include pan-roasted Hudson Valley duck breast served with roasted golden beet and black truffle risotto, finished with Montana huckleberry coulis ($24); grilled pork tenderloin served with apple, onion and bacon relish and finished with a Grand Marnier-laced demi glace ($18); stuffed free-range chicken with goat cheese and wild mushrooms served with toasted walnut and chorizo stuffing and finished with glace de poulette ($18), and day boat scallops and white prawns sautéed with herbs, garlic, forest mushrooms, tomato and white wine and served over fresh pasta ($28).

The guest enjoyed an evening special: grilled veal rib chop with herb truffle risotto and Point Reyes blue cheese demi glace ($38). The large chop, served medium rare, was delicious.

The evening’s other specials were grilled prime rib eye steak with Cabernet/thyme compound butter ($32) and maple-soaked New Zealand red deer tenderloin with huckleberry gastrique ($35). The restaurant offers a lobster du jour and the preparation the night of our visit was a broiled 16-ounce cold water Australian lobster tail with drawn butter at $45.

For dessert, the guest enjoyed a marquise au chocolat ($8), a chocolate ganache cake with milk chocolate mousse, from the French Pattisserie. I ordered the Jamaican coffee crème brûlée ($7.50), made by O’Connell. The impressive caramelized topping was paper-thin; I would have liked it if the custard had been more silken.

Seating at O’Connell’s Hourglass is limited to 50. Reservations are recommended at all times. There is no access problem for those who are physically challenged or in a wheelchair.