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First Time's a Charm: Brocco's Ristorante

"Susci" - Melon maki roll with prosciutto and truffle. Cornmeal-fried sardines with squid-ink risotto.
(photo: Rose Mattrey)

Customers of the tire store previously located at 2818 Delaware Ave. would do a double-take if they pulled into the driveway today expecting to get the tires on their car rotated.

There’s not a tire in sight. And don’t expect to get your oil changed, either. If you close your eyes and listen closely, you can hear the former tire store humming the tune of “If my friends could see me now.”

That’s because the building has been transformed into a handsome, upscale Italian eatery—Brocco’s Ristorante—that opened its doors in September.

Three cheers to owners and first-time restaurateurs Philip and Giuliana Sperandeo. The Kenmore village fathers—and mothers—could use more imaginative entrepreneurs like them. If this kind of business transformation took place on Buffalo’s main drag, Byron Brown, Joel Giambra and Andrew Rudnick would be clamoring to claim responsibility.

With its canvas awnings, wooden floors, cream-colored walls and chocolate-brown ceiling, it’s hard to believe that Brocco’s (named after the Sperandeo’s grandson, Brock) had a less-than-glamorous former life. The attractive banquet room is the space that housed the bays where you’d pull your car in for an oil change or to get new tires mounted.

More good news—the serving staff is top-notch and includes two “graduates” of Friar’s Table: Terry Schiller behind the bar and his cousin, Jim Dombrowski, working the tables. If there was a competition, our server, Liza Marlette, would win the “Miss Congeniality” award hands down. Even better news—the kitchen is the domain of Martin Danilowicz—who was working wonders at Just Pasta when it was sold. Danilowicz, the second executive chef at Brocco’s since it opened, is ably assisted by, among others, sous chef Brooke Kriegbaum, previously at Curly’s Bar and Grill in Lackawanna.

We began our meal with two imaginative appetizers. The guest’s selection was chicken liver crostini ($8). Slices of crisp bread were served with chicken liver pate and fig jam. The sweet jam and the crunch from its tiny seeds were a perfect foil for the paté.

My appetizer, beet carpaccio ($6), was an evening special and a sight to behold. Carpaccio traditionally consists of shaved slices of raw beef, and my opener featured paper-thin slices of crunchy raw beet presented beautifully like a blossom on a large white plate. The beet slices were sprinkled with Gorgonzola cheese and accompanied by a balsamic dressing and a salad of wakame—bright green seaweed—dressed with sesame oil.

Evening appetizer specials also included tuna tartare with melon and avocado ($8) and mussels a la provençal ($9). Appetizers on the regular menu include fire-roasted peppers seasoned with fresh herbs and extra virgin oil served with olive crostini ($7), fava beans sautéed with garlic and extra virgin olive oil ($6) and deep-fried calamari with marinara sauce ($8).

I also enjoyed the very good house salad—a large serving of field greens with a balsamic dressing ($6)—while the guest savored his small Xavier Caesar salad with just the right hint of anchovy ($6, $9 for large). Also available is a fresh mozzarella cheese salad with roasted tomato purée and caper berries ($9).

I had no difficulty selecting my entrée. Just a few days earlier, we had discussed how few restaurants in Buffalo offer osso bucco—braised veal shanks slow-cooked in a delicious mix of wine, stock and vegetables—and Brocco’s Ossobucco Milanese ($21), which also is prepared with tomatoes, called out my name. It was excellent; the tender meat appropriately fell off the bone. This Italian specialty normally is served with risotto and at Brocco’s it comes with an aromatic saffron risotto.

An evening special, braised lamb shank with homemade “Bavarian” noodles ($23) was the guest’s choice. He savored every bite of the ample serving (we both took home leftovers for another meal). The noodles were a fabulous take on mac and cheese; the creamy sauce whispered “cream cheese.”

Other evening specials included cornmeal fried sardines with squid ink risotto ($19). I sampled a few of the little fish—they were very good. Also on special was quail “bracciole” stuffed with crab and lobster and served with fois gras and arancini, which are Italian rice balls,($22) and a pasta dish featuring lobster, shrimp and lobster crème ($24).

Entrées on the regular menu include rapini and Italian sausage served with penne($14), chicken Italian sausage served with a sundried-tomato cream sauce with fettuccini($16), homemade lasagna ($15)and linguine alla carbonara pancetta ($15). Whole wheat pasta can be substituted in pasta dishes. For vegetarians, there is spaghetti aliolio with sautéed garlic, chili flakes and fresh parsley ($14).

There also is veal ($22) and chicken ($16) prepared four ways—parmigiana, picatta, Marsala and—an unusual twist -—with banana peppers. Chicken Mantone ($19)—charred chicken breast prepared “under the brick” and topped with roasted garlic cloves and pearl onions—sounded wonderful. There’s also a grilled 14-ounce New York strip steak with red wine reduction ($29).

Desserts at Brocco’s are by Donna Majewski and Dolci on Elmwood Avenue. We loved Donna’s white chocolate mousse cake, but thought the key lime tart was a bit too sweet. Liza convinced us to sample Dolci’s zuccato cake. The chocolate cake, layered with fillings of cappuccino crème and chocolate custard, is brushed with cognac before being iced with chocolate ganache. It was heavenly. Desserts are $6.

Brocco’s serves dinner from 5-10 pm on Tuesday through Sunday and 5-11 pm on Saturdays. Reservations are recommended on weekends. The restaurant sits 60 with overflow for an additional 50-55 in the banquet room. There are no barriers for those who are physically challenged.