Hutch's Steak Frites, a 16-oz. ribeye served with garlic and basil home fries. Veal rib chop, a 14-oz veal chop stuffed with fontina, sage and prosciutto and roasted. Duck confit salad. Creme brulee.

(photo: Rose Mattrey)

Between smart advertising and expert service night after night, Hutch’s is—and I believe will remain—one of the most well known and loved restaurants in Buffalo. When people come into town, you take them to Hutch’s. It’s our city crowd, our city restaurant.

Owner Mark Hutchinson acquired his know-how in Henry Gorino’s kitchen at Oliver’s. He has since built his reputation as a successful chef and restaurateur in his 12 years at Hutch’s, and he remains the guiding force behind his namesake restaurant. You’ll see him in the kitchen three or four nights a week, and the other nights talking with folks at the bar. A couple of years ago, Hutchinson and Paul Jenkins developed Tempo, a restaurant for those in search of high end Italian cuisine.

The bar at Hutch’s is a hip combination of sport legacy and city finesse. There are high ceilings, exposed brick and a large wooden bar, shelves bursting with fine scotches, wines and pretty much any liquor you may want for that before- or after-dinner drink. Half and full bottles of red, white or sparkling—Hutch’s offers it all. The wine list abounds with Californians, which pair well with the American bistro cuisine, but you can also find a good range of imported wines. Since we are not going to tackle a bottle this evening, I choose a glass of Zaca Mesa viognier and my friend orders an Estancia pinot noir from the 12 wines that are offered by the glass. Both are reasonably priced and of great taste and quality.

We are seated in a pleasing corner table in the front room. Exposed brick is a major feature of the restaurant as a whole. The mirror next to us expands the room, and leopard skin carpet, soft green walls and perfect lighting set the tone of the space. The open kitchen, like the hearth in the middle of the home, adds warmth, life and energy to the scene.

Our waiter promptly brings our wine and proceeds to elaborate on the specials. The number offered is remarkable. Eight entrees, four appetizers and three salad specials were available in addition to the regular menu, which features an array of bold flavor: Jambalaya Pasta ($19.50), Thai High Calamari ($8.95) and Chicken Milanese ($21.00), plus great American bistro classics such as Steak Frites ($31.00), Grilled Fresh Calves Liver ($14.95) and Beef Tenderloin Au Poive ($32.00). For those craving seafood, there is a Seared Sesame Crusted Yellowfin Tuna with Wasabi Ginger Soy ($28.95), Shellfish Risotto with Scallops, Shrimp, Mussels, Calamari and Lobster ($32.00) and Seared Snapper with Shrimp and Scallops ($27.95).

My friend and I decide on two appetizers from the specials list, a stuffed poblano pepper and a duck confit salad. For entrees we chose the steak frites from the standard menu and another special, the veal rib chop.

The salad combines complementary colors and tastes without compromising the true flavors. The greens are sprightly and crisp, very fresh with a just-picked flavor and not overdressed at all (overdressed salads are my pet peeve). The apples, pecans, dried cherries and shredded duck confit served with cranberry-raspberry vinaigrette and parmesan cheese makes a combination perfect for fall weather. The cornmeal fried Poblano pepper paired with black beans and green salsa is classic Southwestern fare. Crispy on the outside, gooey with goat cheese and Monterey Jack on the inside, the contrast in textures matches well with the flavors of lively salsa verde and earthy black beans. This is much better than the “authentic” Mexican food you get in some places.

Entrees arrive. Whoa! The 14-ounce veal rib chop has been stuffed full, so it is quite formidable when it arrives in front of me. The side dishes on both plates are a colorful combo of red and yellow peppers, sugar snap peas and zucchini. The colors are gorgeous together and they shine. These little babies are cooked to perfection, their sweet flavor released with each bite. I cut into the chop to find it is cooked exactly how our server explained it, medium rare to medium. The first bite of the chop is succulent, moist, sweet and finely textured, and the prosciutto wrapping lends a salty, crispy element. I cut in further and fontina cheese comes oozing up from the center. A bite of the full creation—veal, sage, fontina and prosciutto—is simply glorious. They certainly know what they’re doing back there in the kitchen, and I’m rewarded by their expertise. My friend’s steak is a 16-ounce rib eye and is cooked exactly as ordered, with perfect grill marks crisscrossing. Hutch’s switches out the French fries normally served as “frites” and adds basil hash browns instead.

We love our meals, but it finally does prove to be too much for us size-wise, so the busser comes over and offers to wrap it. All-around good service is proving to be another thing Hutch’s does right. We are in the hands of pros.

I love sweets, so of course we see what’s for dessert. Along with crème brulee, chocolate caramel layer cake and Bailey’s cheesecake, they are offering a selection of gelati and sorbet, and a fresh fruit/cookie cup dessert. We choose the cookie cup and the crème brulee, along with an espresso for me and a coffee for my friend. They arrive and we dig in. A generous layer of brittle sugar tops the crème brulee. My spoon can’t wait to crack it. Orange zest heightens the experience as we dive into the vanilla custard, which is creamy soft. The caramelized sugar crust is cracking, so it works well. The almond-laced cookie, about the size of a small soup cup, is resting in a small pool of caramel sauce and contains fresh blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, blueberries and mango, garnished with mint atop fresh whipped crème. Use the spoon to combine all those flavors together. Heaven!

The meal has ended but my friend and I are not ready to call it a night, so we head to Hutch’s inviting bar for another glass (or two) of wine. Once again, Hutch’s has provided a fine evening out, satisfying in so many different ways.