Shrimp with Broccoli & Garlic; Hot & Sour Fried Rice with Pork, Chicken and Shrimp; Chewy Dry-fried Beef Strips with Ginger and Garlic.

(photo: Rose Mattrey)

It’s hard to start this review without using the word “venerable” in the first line. Ming Teh has been a wise choice for Western New Yorkers searching for a combination of classic and nouveau Chinese cuisine for the past 25 years, and because of this long relationship it deserves esteem in my eyes. Yes, certain changes have come about, and the rumors were flying: “Change of ownership,” “Closed,” “Not the same.” But as personified by the swift river passing by the large windows of Ming Teh, change is not a bad thing, especially when done correctly.

Ming Teh has switched ownership, yes, but kept it within the family. The front end manager, Wendy Men, has been working there for the past 16 years, being the niece of the former owner. Wendy’s husband, Peixian Men, has been in the kitchen for the past 23 years. When the previous owners, Wendy’s aunt and uncle, made the difficult decision to close, Peixian and Wendy decided to step up to the challenge of full ownership. During the transition they delayed opening for the winter season from February to April—hence the confusion and rumors on this side of the Niagara. What’s happening with Ming Teh? It is back again, offering the same phenomenal experience that has kept gourmet travelers crossing the Peace Bridge for a quarter of a century.

Wendy’s uncle was an artist. When you step into the brick building perched alongside the mighty Niagara, you will instantly recognize his eye for beauty. Artwork—mostly portraiture—adorns the front entrance area. Wendy is also there, greeting you and ushering you inside. Walking through the first, larger dining room, you experience more varied artwork placed on the light colored wood walls. The wood, from the walls to the ceiling to the furnishings, is light and calming, highlighted by tablecloths and lanterns in red. In Chinese culture, red is the color of good luck and success; it is also the color worn by brides. Here, even without its symbolism, the red provides excitement against the pervasive feeling of peace, and whets the appetite. We are led through to my favorite room, at the very back of the restaurant. Instead of looking at man-made artwork, you view the natural beauty of the water through ceiling to wall windows. It is a perfect space to enjoy our “beau fleuve,” the beautiful river.

My friend, companion—oh, I’ll just say it, my mother—and I are seated with a perfect view. It is fitting I have brought my mother here with me, for she first brought me to this spot nearly twenty years ago. Talking with Wendy later on in the meal, she explains this is not an unusual thing. Many families have grown up sharing meals at Ming Teh.

We are offered the menu. Again the artistic touch, as the menu is a small, embroidery bound book entitled “Menu & Art of Ming Teh.” It is not only beautiful to look at but informative, with descriptions which artfully explain the dishes. Written for the family by an English professor, the words convey not only the ingredients, but the effect of the dish.

With a full liquor license, the menu offers cocktails, liqueurs, beer and a small wine list featuring Canadian wines. My mother and I start with a couple of glasses of Riesling QVA from Calamus Estate.

Ming Teh has always used fine ingredients with no MSG, so all the choices are appealing to me. We settle, after about 20 minutes of perusing the menu, on sharing the Saki Wine Soup, then the Steamed Vegetable Dumplings followed by Cubed Chicken with Tangerine Peel & Garlic and Wine Shrimp with Fungus & Bamboo Shoots. So many choices got away, like my favorite Vegetarian Moo Shu Soup and a new dish called Succulent Crunchy Spicy Sesame Ginger Chicken. Everything sounded so good, and the aromas emanating from the kitchen made it difficult to not order. I’ll just have to come back with my Year of the Pig boyfriend and indulge again.

The soup we shared was light, with the broth of saki providing a clean palate for the rest of the ingredients to assert themselves. The snow peas could not have been more tasty, with the lively crunch and spring flavor I so love. Complementing the peas were pork, shrimp and red dates. Each ingredient gave its own performance. It was a perfect way to begin, as we were not full afterward, merely excited for what lay ahead. A few minutes later, as we were noticing the outside change from sunset to nightfall accompanied by traditional Chinese music in the background, our pretty presentation of steamed dumplings arrived. Left in the metal steamer on a bed of cabbage, six rosebud-like dumplings enticed from within. Each were the size of a golf ball, and with a twist; shredded corn, cabbage and peas were encased. Spooning one onto my plate and coating it with the accompanying soy, garlic and scallion sauce, my mouth nearly watered. Tasting was a pleasure: The juxtaposition of earthy soy, sweet dumpling flesh and sour cabbage is what makes Chinese cuisine so very satisfying. Everything is individually and thoughtfully prepared, and the details and care show in both presentation and in taste.

Our two entrees presented two different color palates. The Tangerine Peel Chicken was richly saturated with oranges, muted browns and hints of red, whereas my Wine Shrimp offered spring-like colors of whites, greens and pinks. Each had a different array of flavor. The former presented sweetness from the tangerine with occasional heat as the taste buds found a chili. The large tangerine peels had been stir fried with succulent cubes of chicken, chili peppers and garlic. The strong, sweet flavors proved fair match for the spice of the chilies, and next time I would even order this at full heat rather than medium (as we had). It was delicious!

There were many aspects to my dish, the Wine Shrimp. Along with the varied colors came variance in texture and taste. The shrimp had been marinated in whiskey and wine for hours before preparation, therefore imparting a rich flavor as well as crunch from perfect stir-frying. The mix of bamboo, mushrooms, whole white onions and snow peas had the mouth dancing from one pure flavor to another. My dish, being such a successful medley of fresh ingredients and masterful preparation, was hard to pin down. It is one best experienced.

Chinese cuisine should be an exciting ride of juxtaposition and integration. Through the years Ming Teh has shared with us their unique culinary expertise, thoroughly mastering this effect. The same chef is still in the kitchen. This is the place where I will go to order traditional Peking Duck during times of celebration, but it is also a place to go on a regular basis to take advantage of what we have so close to us. That is, serious world class Chinese cuisine with a view that few restaurants can boast of. Ming Teh is a Buffalo treasure, even if it lies on the other side of the border. Just remember, it is only fifteen minutes from downtown, but whilst sitting in their peaceful space, you will feel worlds away.