Fine Dining	Savoring the Experience: Daniel's by Marla Crouse

Sauteed sea scallop with shitake mushrooms, pickled ramps and creme fraiche. Seared yellow fin tuna with curried carrot broth, collard greens and baby carrots.

Set in simple white village house on Buffalo Street in Hamburg, across from a local shopping plaza, the unassuming posture of Daniel’s belies the fine dining experience to be had within. The interior is incredibly tasteful and calming, with the palest blue to the walls, white trim molding and intimate spaces in which to sit. In the corner, a small staircase leads to a landing just large enough for one private table for two, by a window. There are just three rooms with 14 tables. One larger table sits in furthest dining room and looks excellent for parties of eight to 10.

Modern silver tracks circle the ceiling. Pendants drop toward individual tables, while a soft glow of light fills the space. One hears low contemporary music in the background and the hum of soft conversation. This is does not seem the place for the loud and boisterous, yet it is not uptight in the least. My friend and I had quite the talk and plenty of laughs that evening.

Daniel’s has been with us for 15 years. The chef prides himself on fresh, well prepared food, while his wife does the interior design. The service was impeccable, and the food delivered on its promise. It is a restaurant of merit. If you are a fan of fine contemporary American cuisine and you have not visited, it should be a priority.

First we were presented with the wine list, from which we chose two whites, a glass of Franciscan chardonnay from California and one of sauvignon blanc from Sacred Hill in New Zealand. By the glass Daniel’s offers five whites and four reds of conventional character. They start to veer toward more variety in their bottle offerings. Still, for a restaurant of this caliber, it would have been nice to see at least some Old World offerings by the glass. (Later in the evening, my duck was crying for a Rhone.)

Our waitress highlighted the specials, and emphasized that everything is made from scratch at Daniel’s. She enthusiastically told us soft-shell crabs were in season, available as an appetizer or entrée. The chef incorporates seasonal ingredients throughout the year, which is always a treat.

At $28, the three-course prix menu was an amazing offering. From a wide selection, one could choose an appetizer of whole milk mozzarella over greens with onions, tomatoes, crispy prosciutto and balsamic vinegar, an entrée of horseradish-crusted salmon fillet with garlic mashed potatoes and leek cream sauce and a dessert of lemon custard tart. For those wanting smaller portions and a choice of Daniel’s favorites at a good price, this is the menu for you.

My friend opted for this menu and was very pleased. She started with the escargots in a homemade pasta sheet with baked garlic and tomatoes. Apparently this appetizer has graced the menu for more than 10 years. I can see why. The plump escargot were gently folded between homemade pasta and set in a thick butter sauce flavored with garlic and tomatoes and garnished with fresh chives. It was beautiful to look at, tender and well balanced to taste. For the entrée she requested the homemade ravioli filled with ricotta cheese, asparagus and mint topped with Parmigiano-Reggiano, olive oil and lemon. Fresh and perfect for spring, with a mixture of flavors inside, perfectly cooked “to the bite” pasta, all topped with sprinkle of Reggiano earthiness.

I chose to make my way through the regular and special offerings. On any night, you will find their regular entrees such as pan-roasted capon breast with fettuccine, mushrooms, peas and foie gras sauce, pork tenderloin medallions with goat cheese, ratatouille and demi-glace, or tenderloin of veal with lobster and lobster sauce. Specials may include appetizers such as grilled escalope of lamb with braised artichokes and white beans or perhaps sautéed sea scallops with shitake mushrooms, pickled ramps and crème fraiche. After a good perusal, I decided on a house smoked trout salad and the duck breast entrée.

My trout salad came with healthy chunks of house-smoked trout atop greens with perfect accoutrements of walnuts, crisp sliced apple and asparagus. Everything was fresh and just right for the season. While going out to dinner may be a perceived as a decadent luxury, the healthy blend of ingredients on this plate would curb anyone’s guilt while satisfying every taste bud. For the entrée, the duck breast showed a perfect layer of crispy skin blending to the soft and pink interior meat. Visually it spread like a butterfly on my plate—homemade fettuccine noodles in the middle, asparagus and French-cut carrots at the top of the plate, sliced tender duck fanned on both sides. Fresh raspberries garnished, with pear puree underneath. The fruit flavors fit so well with the sweet and crispy duck meat. All in all, the dish was very attractive and delicious.

The bread! I must not forget this simple pleasure. The fresh, homemade rolls brought to the table were warm and crusty, with a soft interior perfect for gathering butter.

The prix-fixe included dessert and I had to see what else was offered. My friend tried the selection of sorbets, which consisted of three round scoops in refreshing flavors—coconut lime, strawberry and melon. I had a trio of sampler desserts, incorporating citrus and chocolate, two of my favorite ways to finish a meal. I started with the soft lemon tart. I found the creamy, melt in your mouth texture of the lemon custard was properly balanced by a finely prepared crust. Next in line the two chocolate offerings: White chocolate mousse was scooped onto a pool of berry sauce and then drizzled with dark chocolate. The mousse was unbelievably smooth and the flavors married well. The final sample was a dark chocolate flourless cake with deeply expressive cocoa flavor. Pistachios were placed on top. Not overtly sweet, this cake instead thrilled with rich cocoa flavor. The trio of desserts was perfectly sized, so I did not feel stuffed with sugar afterwards. The quality of this meal extended to the last bite.

From the gracious maitre d’ and friendly, professional servers to the chef with his 25 years in the kitchen, Daniel’s shows how the marriage of well prepared food and attentive service works to create a seemingly effortless environment, perfect for relaxing and enjoying a meal. I was incredibly pleased with my experience at Daniel’s and I privately berated myself for not visiting beforehand. If you are not from Hamburg, you will find that it is a close drive from downtown, but far enough to feel you are going somewhere special. Now that I understand the quality Daniel’s offers, I will be bringing other people to this Southtowns destination. In the pantheon of notable Buffalo restaurants—past and present—Daniel’s has earned its place.