Chef's Sashimi Selection: Shrimp, Octopus, Hamachi/Yellowtail sashimi, Salmon nigiri and Best Spicy Tuna Roll.

(photo: Rose Mattrey)

Mike Andrzejewski has made a name for himself. He brings artistic talent, longevity and not least humility to an industry marred by mediocrity, trend and vanity. Through the years you may have experienced his food, dining at Oliver’s, Warren’s, Rue Franklin and Tsunami. Whether it is classical French, American contemporary or Asian fusion, people just love his food. And now he is back, and the wait is over for many of his fans. He offers us Sea Bar, located on Main Street in the village of Williamsville.

The décor of the space incorporates natural stone, wood and water elements. There are many textures interacting, from the dark, jute-like carpet, to the black stone framed in copper bar base, to the radiating wooden slats which adorn the ceiling. One wall is adorned with Japanese watercolor scrolls portraying fish and flowers, while the other wall shelves six cylindrical fish bowls in which swim colorful koi. In the center of this live display is a flat-screen television displaying water and shoreline scenes. All works together to create a natural, serene setting, perfect for showcasing Andrzejewski’s simple, artistic cuisine.

The semi-circular sushi bar sits central while dark-clothed tables with light wood chairs are scattered throughout the open space. The sushi bar is both impressive and functional. To the right is the glass-enclosed working space for Andrzejewski and his co-sushi chef, Chris Van Every. Here you can view the colorful, fun ingredients they work with. To the left is a three-tiered, granite-topped sushi bar, perfect for solo diners and those who enjoy watching the pros work.

I was pleased to see care taken with the wine and sake selections. Dedicated to matching his food with his wine, Mike has chosen several aromatic and refreshing whites such as Austrian Gruner Veltliner, French Muscadet and German Riesling, as well as a Spanish rose and a few reds, Cotes du Rhone and pinot noirs. Most of his selections are offered by the glass and work wonderfully with his cuisine. Nine unique, premium sakes were offered, as well as a sparkling sake and hot sake. I decided on the Hofer Gruner and my friend chose the Tankasage “Morning Glow” from the ultra premium cold sake selection.

The menu is divided into “Nigiri/Sashimi” (including a chef’s sashimi selection), “Sea Bar Maki” (specialty rolls, both traditional and creative), “Specialties” and “Composed Plates.” We were fortunate enough to try something from each section, and (spoiler alert) were extremely pleased with every item presented.

We started with two maki rolls, the “Best Spicy Tuna” and the “Tempura Creamy Eel.” Spicy tuna is a mainstay on most menus and, true to its name, I found the taste and texture of Mike’s offering exciting and mouthwatering. Served on a simple, square, white plate, the two-tiered roll was garnished with radish sprouts to correspond with the spiciness of the dish. The white rice outside had been rolled in toasted sesame seeds, to give a crunch, along with the crisp cucumber in the middle. The tuna was plentiful and rich and the spicy sauce was perfectly proportioned to the rest of the ingredients—no one item overpowered another.

The Tempura Creamy Roll consisted of unagi (grilled eel), cream cheese and scallions, rolled into seaweed and served tempura (battered and fried). After, it was gently drizzled with a sweet glaze. My friend and I agreed it was delicious—warm, velvety and creamy. Eel itself lends sweetness, as does the cream cheese, while the seaweed balances with a hint of salt. It was thoroughly comforting, without losing its complexity.

Next was the Chef’s Selection of Sashimi. What an impressive plate! More than 10 selections of seafood, two bites of each—perfect for sharing. The colors and shapes with differing heights and sheens were beautiful just to look at. Under the seafood was a bed of seaweed salad and shaved carrots and radishes. The generous offering included blue marlin, which was lightly dusted with sesame, seaweed flakes and red spice, melt-in-your-mouth salmon, sweet crab and shrimp, and firm, muscular octopus. The choice continued with some of my favorites—sweet red and wasabi tobiko (flying fish roe), served on a fresh Maine diver scallop, and three types of tuna: albacore, ahi and yellowtail. Those who love sushi will be pleased with the fresh array of seafood. For those who have yet to try sushi, Sea Bar’s Chef’s Selection is a perfect place to start.

While we were in sushi heaven, a cucumber salad and a dish of Volcano Noodles came to our table in simple white bowls. The salad was a refreshing mix of thinly sliced cucumbers tossed in rice wine vinegar, with sweet white rice on the bottom and toasted black sesame seeds on top. It was an ideal side to the sushi plate. The Volcano Noodles are a meal themselves. Absolutely gorgeous elements abound in this dish. The bottom is filled with crunchy fried noodles, and then topped with healthy, succulent bits of pink salmon and earthy red tuna sashimi. These are tossed with red peppers, onion and bright green cilantro, and the whole creation is generously topped with vibrant, sweet red tobiko. I loved the energetic colors and flavors combined with the pop and crunch.

We ended our meal with a homemade green tea ice cream. Served with candied cashews and a Pirouline cookie, it was a nice way to end. With rich, grassy flavor, it was the creamy essence of one of my favorite beverages.

Western New Yorkers are becoming savvy when it comes to their sushi, and we now have a number of great sushi bars to prove it. Sea Bar is sophisticated and polished, without any pretensions—just really fresh seafood, prepared with care and delivered beautifully to your table. Andrzejewski and the staff at Sea Bar, despite being open for just a short while, are truly in top form. I am excited to see Andrzejewski back doing what he loves to do; those who have not experienced his talents should head over before the mad rush begins.