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A Visual Feast: Duo

Steamed Chilean Seabass with Valencia oranges, Calamata olives and Faletto Pomodoro. Served with herb risotto and grilled asparagus.

Duo is designed for those seeking a night out, but you have to be ready for it. Women, wear your fun, sexy dress that hangs in the closet most nights, and guys, grab something sharp and you’ll fit right in. Duo is all about the details, so don’t forget your adornments: You’ll want to sparkle.

Black and white is the theme throughout. The bar is white stone and plays the light off the illuminated, faux marble back bar. A triangular mirror sits at center, rising upward and drawing the eye to the artisan teardrop chandelier. This beautiful piece consists of 19 uniquely shaped glass pendants, hanging at different levels and adorned with black tassels. The piece joins the bar with the balcony dining area and is central to both spaces. Also in this spot is a trio of flat-screen televisions, which join the dining area above. These screens alternate high-definition scenes—beach, architecture, sunset—catching the eye and subtly changing the lighting throughout.

The grounding force is the brick structure of the building itself. Even here, tiny squares of glass are interspersed throughout the bricks, adding glint and glitter. The strength of the earthy warm brick allows these whimsical glimmering details to shine. Throughout the restaurant jewel-like surfaces catch the eye. Small sections of the ceiling are tin, further adding to the reflective décor. Lighting has also been considered in a playful way. Large, elliptical light covers descend from the ceiling. The cover pattern is black-and-white chintz, bordered with black. Everything works together, the eye constantly seeking and finding new treasures to behold.

Duo also seeks to entertain. The ambience is heightened with a live piano player, as well as a DJ some nights. An interesting twist to my evening involved a roaming magician stopping tableside to perform card tricks.

After taking it all in at the bar, my friend and I were led upstairs to our table. The wraparound balcony affords a view into the bar below, and we were seated at a table right next to the metal railing, the white tablecloth with red accents and beautiful large wine glasses reflecting the candlelight.

Not surprisingly, the cocktail mood struck and I ordered a Campari and soda to whet my appetite. My friend ordered a Manhattan. With these in hand we perused the Italian-themed menu. In addition to three sections of appetizers, gourmet pizzas and second courses, the waiter shared the specials. That evening they offered escarole and cannelloni bean soup with spicy sausage, an appetizer of pan-seared sea scallops with a chili lime coulis and two entrees: halibut with a mango pineapple salad, risotto and asparagus and a grilled veal chop. (I immediately pegged the veal as my choice for dinner.) Regular appetizers include calamari fritto misto, charcuterie for two, eggplant parmesan roulade and the Duo meatball with sauce. Their seven choices of gourmet pizzas sounded creative and perfect for sharing as an appetizer at dinner or with drinks at the bar. Entrees include pasta choices such as potato gnocchi with spicy sausage, sun-dried tomatoes and creamy pesto sauce, seafood offerings like shrimp scampi and steamed sea bass, as well as meat dishes such as rack of lamb, beef short ribs and prime ribeye au poivre.

We made our selections and turned to the wine list. Duo offers a nice selection of bottled wines at various price points, and dependable wines by the glass. The list offers descriptive notes in order to assist with your selection. With dinner we opted to share a bottle of wine, and wisely chose a VanDuzer pinot noir from the Willamette Valley in Oregon. It was delicious and paired well with each successive course.

To begin, my friend and I shared a duck salad. There was an ample amount of properly cooked duck, and greens perfectly dressed with light raspberry vinaigrette. Peppered cheese croutons were an unexpected treat. After our salad, we opted for a pizza Napolitaine with tomato, basil, anchovies and fresh mozzarella. This was so tasty. The pizza had a perfect crust, just the right amount of sauce and cheese, as well as a balanced share of anchovies, adding salty flair.

After we’d had part of the generously sized pizza wrapped, our entrees arrived. My grilled veal chop was cooked to my preference of medium rare. A nice, meaty chop, it was served over polenta with grape tomatoes, shallots, arugula and a spoonful of capers. Traditionally seasoned with rosemary, the meal was earthy and comforting. My friend had chosen the orecchiette with shrimp, eggplant, rainbow peppers, artichokes, calamata olives, spinach, heirloom tomatoes, mushrooms and fresh basil. Although the list of ingredients was long, it still needed some variation, perhaps of texture—a little more al dente on the pasta, or a toast to it and a bit more seasoning.

We were told Duo has its own pastry chef. Offered that evening were upside down pineapple cake (our selection), chocolate mousse, pumpkin pie, apple pie al a mode, white chocolate crème brulee, carrot cake and biscotti. Dessert, as promised, was homey and delicious. It’s been a while since I’ve had a pineapple upside down cake and I was very happy to end a long, enjoyable meal this way.

Service was very good, food promptly delivered when we were ready for the next course. My friend and I felt bad for the waiter, as we definitely took our time. He responded to our leisurely pace and made sure our courses didn’t overlap.

Duo has other areas to explore. Have a drink outside while the weather allows—they have a full bar out back, with a wonderful view of City Hall and the Liberty Building. Blankets are provided if you feel cold. The perimeter is bordered by illuminated, ivy-filled stone urn planters. Candlelit, romantic and hip, this surely is a great reason to stay for that nightcap and enjoy the environment Duo has created.