Current Issue: Artvoice v7n47, week of Thursday November 20 » back issues
Food for Thought |
Chives: A Sign of Springby Joe George |
|
|
|
Chive and White Bean Hummus Yield: 4 cups1/2 cup lemon juice 1/4 cup water 1/4 cup minced chives 1 tablespoon fresh minced garlic 1 teaspoon salt 3 cups white beans, canned or cooked and rinsed 1 cup tahini Combine the lemon juice, water, chives, garlic, and salt in the bowl of a food processor and process for a couple minutes. Add the beans and tahini and process until smooth. Transfer the hummus to a plate or shallow bowl and refrigerate for 1/2 hour. Just prior to serving, sprinkle with paprika and extra virgin olive oil.
Pan Roast Salmon with Chive Beurre Blanc Yield: 4 servings3 tablespoons olive oil 4 portions salmon 1/4 cup white wine 1/4 cup white wine vinegar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon white pepper 1/4 minced chives 1/4 pound chilled unsalted butter, cut into cubes thin slices of lemon for garnish Preheat an oven to 350F. Heat the olive oil in an ovenproof skillet over high heat. When the oil is very hot, carefully place the salmon in the skillet skin-side up. Cook the salmon for a minute or so, until it begins to brown, then turn it over and place the skillet in the oven. Roast the fish for about seven minutes. In a separate, smaller skillet, combine the wine, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil and cook until just a couple tablespoons of liquid remains. Stir in the chives and remove the pan from the heat. Remove the fish from the oven and transfer it to a serving platter. Return the sauce skillet to the heat and swirl in the butter a couple pieces at a time. When the last of the butter is almost melted, pour the sauce over the fish and garnish with lemon slices. This is best served immediately. |
Sitting on my front porch sipping a glass of wine on one of the first truly spring evenings of the season, I find myself staring in amazement. No, I’m not looking at the beautiful sunset or anything hokey like that, I’m contemplating a tiny chive plant that has survived yet another difficult Buffalo winter. It’s one of the first herbs I planted when I moved into this house six summers ago. It was originally just a few shoots connected to a small clump of root when I pushed it into the ground, but now each year it grows so large that I have to cut it back, lest it intrude on valuable real estate in my teeny garden. Each winter its roots hibernate under a blanket of snow, ice, and frozen ground, yet without fail the following spring it pushes back through the soil reaching for the sun, and grows bright green with beautiful purple blossoms.
The 16th-century French monk Brother Lawrence (born Nicholas Herman) had such a profound experience while staring at a barren tree on a bleak winter’s day—knowing that the tree, stripped of its leaves and seemingly dead, would be renewed and blossom in the spring—that he had a religious vision, a conversion. He was eventually accepted into a monastery where he spent many years as head cook, and is said to have never lost his sense of awe.
I am in no way implying that I had such an intense revelation while staring at my little cluster of chives, nor is this what led me to a life in the kitchen, but I couldn’t help but consider this: Even after the most brutal winters, each spring these delicate little shoots push through the hard soil and reach for the sun as if it is their only purpose on this earth.
Along with onions, garlic, and other pungent shoots and bulbs—oddly including asparagus—chives are part of the allium, or lily, family. Plants from this botanical family have had as much lore and controversy surrounding them as a film star: They’ve been said to be everything from a natural antibiotic to hair-growth tonic and even vampire repellent. And while their more pungent cousins, garlic and onions, have been used as folk medicine for eons, chives are more often considered the refined, or subtle, family member. According to the late food writer, Waverley Root, in his encyclopedic book simply titled Food, one John Randolph, “a gentleman of Virginia” (circa 1770), was a proponent of chives instead of onions. In his book, A Treatise on Gardening, he spoke of them surviving the harsh winters and also claimed that, unlike garlic and onions, “chives left no trace on the breath.” But the best part, I think (besides the fact that they don’t make you cry when you cut them), is their delicate onion flavor.
Reader Comments
No comments yet!
Leave a Comment:
|
|
Issue Navigation> Issue Index > v7n20: Dig The Tomato Man (5/15/08) > Chives: A Sign of Spring This Week's Issue • Artvoice Daily • Events Calendar • Classifieds |
Artvoice Blog Headlines
Who Goes Where When Hillary Goes to State?posted November 19, 12:04 pm on Artvoice DailyCity Hall News has flow_chart that tracks who might replace who, from Hillary’s Senate seat on down (click to expand or follow the link—it’s an awkward shape): |
It’s Robert Rich Sr. All High Stadiumposted November 14, 5:05 pm on Artvoice DailyThese new signs properly label the structure. We’ve been reading recent stories in the Buffalo News about sportswriter Tom Borrelli’s terrible fall last week at the old All High Stadium. He’s currently battling life-threatening injuries... (more) |
CWM Fined for Violationsposted November 14, 2:41 pm on Artvoice DailyThis week Chemical Waste Management was fined $175,000 by the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation for violating its permits and the state’s hazardous waste laws. I don’t have much to say about that, except it doesn’t seem to me like too much money... (more) |
Musical Chairsposted November 14, 12:51 pm on Artvoice DailyThe AP reports that Hillary Clinton met with Barack Obama in Chicago yesterday, adding fuel to speculation that she might be Obama’s choice for secretary of state. If that happens, it has long been rumored that Brian Higgins would be appointed to her Senate seat... (more) |
Paint the Townposted November 14, 11:06 am on Artvoice DailyLate last night, at the tail end of one of the few weeks in the past year in which we did not publish anything snarky about anybody, someone threw two gallons of paint on our front doors. Seems a waste; we hadn’t even earned it. Nonetheless, we were cleaning up all morning... (more) |
Old Editions Book Shopposted November 13, 1:58 pm on Artvoice DailyAV videographer Matt Quinn tours Old Editions, an often overlooked treasure at the corner of Oak and Huron Streets downtown: show enclosure (video/x-flv; 21.29 MB) |
This Is Not Today’s Newsposted November 12, 9:37 am on Artvoice DailyBut it would be nice if it were. Via the Data Stream, by way of Jon Winet. |
This Just In…posted November 11, 3:28 pm on Artvoice DailyAlways in the vanguard, researchers of the University at Buffalo’s Center of Human Capital have reached a bold conclusion, according to a statement disseminated this afternoon: Although no official determination has been made about whether New York State or the U... (more) |
Silver Lining: Edwards Remains a Good Guyposted November 11, 11:17 am on Artvoice DailyMarshawn Lynch Amid the anguished finger-pointing, plaintive wailing and resigned head-shaking sweeping the region following the Buffalo Bills’ third straight defeat, Season Ticket would like to apportion a minute sliver of credit. Quarterback Trent Edwards, by most quantitative and qualitative standards, failed miserably at New England on Sunday (not coincidentally, this was also his third consecutive regressive outing)... (more) |
Mazzariello’s Ristorante & Martini Barposted November 7, 4:30 pm on Chew on ThisPhoto taken by Rose Mattrey From Antipasti to Primi to Secondi, Mazzariello’s (114 Bloomfield Ave, Lancaster, 206.0561) has conquered the map of Italian cooking. Your palate will be exposed to an array of spices, herbs, and ingredients indigenous to Northern & Southern Italy... (more) |
Post Election Bits & Bytesposted November 7, 12:02 am on Tech VoiceElection ‘08 is now in the history books - so I figured it’s time to take a look backward, and a look forward at some relevant headlines. Hacking Democracy First, we’ll take a look at one of the best kept secrets of the campaign season, from both sides, care of a Newsweek article published just today... (more) |
BNMC Open Meeting Tonightposted November 6, 1:19 pm on Artvoice DailyTonight at 6pm in the auditorium of the downtown library, everyone is invited to attend a public hearing on the Buffalo-Niagara Medical Campus—North End Projects. Among the projects planned are a 300,000 square foot Medical Office Building to be owned and operated by Ciminelli Development Company, Inc... (more) |
That Pigeon Won’t Flyposted November 6, 10:05 am on Artvoice DailySteve Pigeon Here’s another example, this one two years old, of the way Steve Pigeon’s political committees are alleged to steer money to candidates illegally. On September 15, 2006, the Pigeon-controlled PAC Citizens for Fiscal Integrity paid “RUR Strategy Group” $9,000 in consulting fees, according to CFI’s campaign finance disclosure forms... (more) |
SeaBar’s Social Calendarposted November 5, 12:44 pm on Chew on ThisSeaBar will host live jazz and sushi nights starting Friday, November 21st at 8 p.m. (5235 Main Street, Wmsvl, 204.5283). A Cave Springs Riesling Tasting Event will take place at SeaBar’s suburban location on Wednesday, November 9th at 7 p.m... (more) |
Artvoice TV: Latest Additions » more on AVTV
Dr. Riyaz Hassanali: The effect Smoking has on your Skinposted November 21, 4:50 pm on channel Local Interest
|
Twilightposted November 19, 1:09 pm on channel Movie Trailers
|
The Boy in the Striped Pajamasposted November 19, 1:06 pm on channel Movie Trailers
|
Avi Takes Artvoice Shopping for the holidays @ Lexington food Co-opposted November 19, 11:52 am on channel Food
|
TRAIN DAY! @ the Buffalo Historical Societyposted November 17, 3:07 pm on channel Local Interest
|
Mass Appeal: Elmwood Fashion Eventposted November 15, 10:19 pm on channel Events
|
Buffalo Contemporay Danceposted November 15, 6:43 pm on channel Events
|
Old Editions Book Shopposted November 13, 11:42 am on channel Local Interest
|
Off Stage: Conversations with Anthony Chaseposted November 12, 4:50 pm on channel Theater
|
Happy Go Luckyposted November 12, 2:08 pm on channel Movie Trailers
|
Quantum of Solaceposted November 12, 2:01 pm on channel Movie Trailers
|
Flash Party at Essex St.posted November 9, 10:59 am on channel Events
|
Lakeview Effect at Nietzsche'sposted November 8, 4:54 pm on channel Music
|
Flatbed at Allen St. Hardwareposted November 8, 2:28 pm on channel Music
|
Obama's Nightposted November 6, 3:13 pm on channel Politics
|
Subscribe 