Food News You Can Use

If you’re in the mood for a glass of wine after work or looking to invest in a bottle, consider The Wine Thief, on the corner of Bryant and Elmwood (431 Elmwood Ave, Buffalo, 332-2929). The former Solid Grounds coffee shop is hardly recognizable, thanks to a major renovation that turned the premise into a sophisticated Napa-style wine bar.

The Wine Thief (photo by Rose Mattrey)

The spacious venue features a vast bar, comfortable leather chairs, bistro-style tables, wooden wine racks, and wine lockers for serious connoisseurs. The wine list showcases 20 varieties by the glass and 150 labels by bottle. Each bottle is temperature controlled, compliments of a deluxe Cuvee climate control system. Although wine dictates the menu, twenty-five beers are available in addition to a litany of appetizers.

Executive chef Justin Hernandez and Sous chef Shawn Sweeney have cooked up a focused bill of fare that complements the wine list. You can choose from three tiers of cheese boards featuring international blues, creamy bries, aged cheddars, and smoky goudas. Cured meats from Spars, roasted garlic bread, and chunks of olive batard accompany each flight. Vegetarian fare includes couscous-stuffed bell peppers, gourmet pizzettas, and a spiced pear salad. The pan-seared scallops come highly recommended by the kitchen staff. If you’re not in the market for seafood, try the soft shell duck tacos. Wine Thief, welcome to the lower Elmwood Village!

Further downtown and closer to the theater district, Just Vino will open this fall to citizens of the world who want to drink wine (846 Main Street, Buffalo, 725-0166). Exposed brick walls and floor-to-ceiling windows give the premise a spacious yet intimate feeling. The outcome is a cozy neighborhood pub, less the hard alcohol and drab lighting.

Just Vino’s owners based their concept on numerous tapas joints, enotecas, and cafés they visited while traveling in Europe. Their goal is to provide an intelligent, unpretentious atmosphere where patrons can engage in stimulating conversation while sampling wine by the glass or bottle. Assorted snacks like Mediterranean olives, mushrooms, tapenades, and cheese plates will complement the selection of reds, whites, and rosés that rotate on the wine list. For more information on the opening date, visit justvino.net.

Last but not least, Kuni’s (226 Lexington Avenue, 881-3800) will close Friday, September 5 for approximately four to six weeks. During that period, it will undergo a renovation and re-open in early October as a full-service restaurant complete with a dinner menu and table service. A cocktail/sushi bar will also be added to the appetizing equation.

—judy a. sperry, alyssa hong