Chew On This

Amigo's

(photo: Rose Mattrey)

We’re one month into the new year and, as far as restaurateurs are concerned, we’re finally through the worst of it. January is the dregs in the food industry. It would seem that everything’s conspiring to keep customers home—a dearth of healthy eating resolutions, windstorms, snowstorms and cold snaps and, the worst culprit of all, holiday credit card bills. But Valentine’s Day is next Thursday, and so the food industry looks hopefully forward to digging itself out of the hole and kicking off a new food year. If you’re hoping to celebrate with a dinner out on the town, be sure to make your reservations soon! Here’s what else is happening:

Just because it’s cold outside and there’s snow in the forecast, doesn’t mean that the farmer’s markets have to close. The Wintermarket on Elmwood made its home inside the Lafayette Avenue Presbyterian Church (875 Elmwood Ave.) three and a half weeks ago, where it will continue through the opening of the Elmwood-Bidwell Farmers Market in mid-May. Every Sunday from noon to 4pm, a handful of local vendors sell everything from artisan breads to loose teas and salsas. Represented at the Wintermarket are Artful Table, Avenue Boys Smokehouse, Blossom Hill Farm, Carla’s Crumbly Creations, Chateau Buffalo, Go Veggies, Saltamonte’s Salsa, Tea Amo and White Cow Dairy.

Edwin and Irene Orta opened their all-American restaurant, Amigo’s (1609 Kenmore Ave., Kenmore, 874-1072), last Monday, January 28. Personally renovated by the couple, the restaurant features an impressive 41-foot-long serpentine bar. Edwin wants to remind everyone that on Friday’s he offers haddock served in 10 different styles—beer-battered, breaded, cornmeal, broiled, Parmesan, marinara, stuffed, blackened, Cajun and Greek (more impressive, perhaps, he can name them off the top of his head). Other specials include carved beef behind the bar on Tuesday and Saturday and fresh soups every day. Amigo’s is open every day from 11am to 11pm.

As promised in last year’s final column (v6n52), there’s news from the Elmwood and Bryant neighborhood as Astoria closed and a French bistro, Tabree (423 Elmwood Ave.), promises to replace it. A partnership between Bryan Bryndle and Tara DeJoseph, the new restaurant will cater to a diverse group—from the burger-and-fries crowd to those seeking classic French. They are currently gutting the whole place and adding a 10-seat bar to the restaurant with hopes of opening in early April. Classics like steak tartare, steak au poivre, ceviche, bouillabaisse and rack of lamb will be offered, with no entrée exceeding $30. “Tabree” is a combination of Tara and Bryan’s names translated into French or, as Bryan jokingly points out, a Danish company that makes giant pig feeding carousels. Lunch and dinner will be offered from Wednesday to Sunday.

Around the same time that’s opening a new and beer lounge called the Wine Thief (431 Elmwood Ave.) will open just down the block at Elmwood and Bryant. Named for the narrow glass pipette that’s used to remove wine from the cask for testing purposes, the Wine Thief will guarantee its customers plenty of wines to sample, as evidenced by the 500-bottle glass wine room they’re building. The restaurant, which is being expanded to include the neighboring storefront, will feature a fireplace, crescent bar and wine lockers. Small-portion foods will be served, as will desserts. The restaurant will be opening at 4pm for anyone who likes to duck out early and get an early start on the evening.

Bel Cibo (929 Elmwood Ave., 883-1841) has nixed its express lunches for now. A steal at only $8.95, the lunch offered a full salad bar with two soups and a choice of four entrées. We heard rave reviews about it, but that stretch of Elmwood doesn’t have a lively enough lunch scene to bother opening the restaurant for it. Cecelia’s (716 Elmwood Ave., 883-8066) has dumped its lunch, too, until sometime in the spring when warmer, sunnier weather promises to bring diners back to its sprawling patio.

The Village Beer Merchant (547 Elmwood Ave., phone) has opened its doors and is fully operational, selling countless varieties of beer in both bottles and growlers, and offering a deli and a variety of gourmet foods.

If you’d like us to pass along your food news, please call us at 881-6604, or email us at editorial@artvoice.com (with “chew on this” in the subject heading).