I always look forward to Friday nights in Lent. It’s fish fry time at many local churches, and there is something comforting and relaxing about lingering with friends at the communal tables while enjoying a meal that is the virtual essence of Buffalo.

At Holy Angels Church (348 Porter Avenue, 885-3767 or 446-3391), you enter the church basement from the rear parking lot, bordered by West and Fargo Avenues. After descending a steep flight of stairs, you will find a cashier on the right who takes the order. There may be a wait, but that.s a good thing, as the selection is extensive, ranging from a baked or beer batter fish fry for $8.25; fish Florentine for $8.75, or eight shrimp or scallops for $8.95. A combo platter for $13.50 as well as pizza and mac and cheese are available, too. After placing your order with the cashier, take a seat in the basement, and someone will take your ticket and get the kitchen working on your meal. The basement is generally crowded and all conversations compete with a din of cheerful noise.

The fish dinners are the usual enormous fare, served with fries, coleslaw and bread. The meals come on paper plates, and with plastic cutlery, but they are still very tasty. The shrimp dinner is generous, and the shrimp are butterflied, which somehow makes them pleasantly savory. The haddock comes from Schneider’s and is battered and fried or baked in the visibly chaotic kitchen. Fish Florentine is probably the healthiest choice, and is delicate and delicious. The beer batter is what a Buffalonian expects: fried, crisp and monstrous. The sides are okay. I have found that fries dipped in tartar sauce are wonderfully flavorful. You can, if you wish, order a green salad with your meal. Dessert is ice cream for an additional 50 cents, or cheesecake for $2.50. Beer, wine, soda, water, and coffee are also served.

The best thing about Holy Angels is the people who show up. In wonderful Buffalo fashion, you never know whom you will run into. There are the West Side neighbors, the visitors from Williamsville coming back to their neighborhood roots and former parish, and very often a crew from one of the local TV networks. The crowd’s diversity makes for great people-watching. Dinner is be offered all Fridays in Lent except Good Friday, 5-7pm. Takeout and delivery also available.

In the pursuit of diversity and with a spirit of ecumenism, we decided to descend on Hamburg United Methodist Church (116 Union Street, 649-8080) on the first Friday of this year’s Lenten season. Coming from the West Side, our intrepid driver Missy got us there without incident, despite the gas tank flashing the fill-’er-up signal. Jean and Roger, coming from Dorchester Avenue, toured Angola and various other sites on Route 5 before arriving an hour late. I think Mapquest might be a good tool for those city dwellers venturing out to unfamiliar territory. Regardless of whether it is unfamiliar, Hamburg’s quaint Americana ambience and its Victorian homes are cozy and welcoming.

The Methodists keep things simple and organized. Beer-battered haddock is served with homemade coleslaw, macaroni and potato salads, and french fries if you ask for them, all for $8.75. The tables have plastic pink tablecloths and food is served on pretty green and white plates, with actual silverware. The fish is generously sized, but not enormous, which is kind of a relief from gluttony. Same with the sides—they are ample but not overwhelming. The meal is fresh, hot, and good. (I just wish they used Hellmann’s in the salads. Wars have been waged over the Hellmann’s vs. salad dressing vs. Miracle Whip issue; I’m weighing in.) And food just tastes better on real plates.

Beverages are Hawaiian punch or coffee or tea; dessert is a choice of pie. Should you join the Methodists for a fish fry, be sure to ask for Lisa. She is the exuberant greeter, ambassador, and hostess par excellence, and she will welcome you and make you laugh. Fish fries will be served 5-7pm on Fridays through Lent, again with the exception of Good Friday.