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Homemade Frozen Goodness

Ice creams and other frozen desserts fall into a nebulous category of foods: There are so many quality brands available that they’re rarely made at home. But in truth they are surprisingly simple to produce. If your first thought is that you need an expensive ice cream machine, think again. You don’t even need an old fashioned hand-cranked one. Homemade ice cream can be made simply in your home freezer and mixed by hand or with a common electric mixer. Indeed, this has always been the case—in Fannie Merritt Farmer’s 1896 cookbook, The Boston Cooking School Cookbook, she gives a recipe for vanilla ice cream that contains only three ingredients: cream, sugar, and vanilla. The directions are somewhat vague but succinct: “mix ingredients, and freeze.”

Plum sorbet - recipe below.

The lightness of ice cream comes from its being aerated, or whipped; Ms. Farmer’s recipe, although tasty, would no doubt be on the heavy side. The simple steps for homemade ice cream are these: Make your base, transfer it to a bowl, place the bowl in the freezer, stir it periodically as it freezes, and aerate it with an electric mixer.

It’s as simple as that. Ice cream is, after all, a very old delicacy, made long before electricity and even commercial ice production. There are a few theories on its origin. One is that it’s related to methods the Chinese used for thousands of years to preserve fruits and juices. Another is that it stems from a treat that the famed Roman Emperor Nero is said to have enjoyed: mountain snow drizzled with honey. Whatever the origin, one can only imagine the luxury (and status) it must have represented prior to modern refrigeration.

Indeed, ice cream was originally a food for the wealthy. Early recipes contained no dairy and were based on frozen fruit syrups. (The French word sorbet, the Italian sorbetto, and the English sherbet are all said to be derived from the Turkish chorbet, or possibly the Arabic charbab, which generally refers to syrup-based fruit drinks.) The addition of cream and eggs was supposedly added not only to make the delicacy even more decadent but also to make it whiter and seemingly more exclusive.

The marrying of ice cream with an edible cone was something of necessity, not to mention a stroke of genius. It happened at the 1904 World’s Fair in St. Louis. Apparently, as fate would have it, a Syrian immigrant was selling waffles next to an ice cream vendor; business was bustling and the ice cream man ran short of clean dishes. The wafflemaker saw an opportunity and fashioned his waffles into the shape of cones.

According to the International Dairy Foods Association, more ice cream is sold on Sunday than any other day of the week.

In 1984, President Ronald Reagan designated July as National Ice Cream Month, and the third Sunday of the month as National Ice Cream Day. (He must have really liked the stuff.) In his proclamation the former president also called for his fellow Americans to observe these events with “appropriate ceremonies and activities.” I’m still trying to figure out what he meant by that.

joe george

Vanilla Ice Cream

Yield: about 2 quarts

2 cups milk
A pinch of salt
1 1/2 cups sugar
10 egg yolks
4 cups heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Heat the milk, salt, and sugar in a small saucepan. Whisk the egg yolks in a bowl and gradually add the warmed milk, stirring constantly as you pour. Pour the warmed yolks and milk back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the custard thickens enough to coat the spatula. Strain the custard into the heavy cream. Transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer and freeze until almost firm, stirring periodically. When it is almost firm, attach the bowl to the mixer. Mix on high speed using the paddle attachment. Refreeze until firm.

Frozen Chocolate Mousse

Yield: about 3 cups

8 ounces semi-sweet chocolate chips
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup sugar

Melt the chocolate in a small bowl over a pot of simmering water. Stir the beaten eggs into the melted chocolate and stir them until they cook and are thickened (about 2 or 3 minutes). Remove the bowl from the heat and refrigerate until cooled to room temperature. Whip the cream, while gradually adding the sugar, until it forms stiff peaks. Using a spatula, gently fold the chocolate base into the whipped cream. Transfer the mousse to a shallow bowl that is just slightly larger than the mousse itself, cover it with plastic wrap and freeze until firm.

Frozen Lemon Cream

Yield: about 4 cups

2 cups heavy cream
1/3 cup sugar
1/2 cup lemon juice

Pour the cream into the bowl of an electric mixer and whip on medium speed. Gradually add the sugar, then the lemon. When the cream forms soft peaks transfer it to a clean bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and freeze it until firm.

Double Chocolate Ice Cream

Yield: about 2 quarts

2 cups milk
A pinch of salt
1 1/2 cups sugar
10 egg yolks
1/4 cup cocoa powder
1 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips
4 cups heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon vanilla

Heat the milk, salt, and sugar in a small saucepan. Whisk the egg yolks and cocoa powder together in a bowl and gradually add the warmed milk, stirring constantly as you pour. Pour the warmed yolks and milk back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the custard thickens enough to coat the spatula. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate chips, stirring until melted. Strain into the heavy cream. Transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer and freeze until almost firm, stirring periodically. When it is almost firm, attach the bowl to the mixer. Mix on high speed using the paddle attachment. Refreeze until firm.

Plum Sorbet

Yield: about 5 cups

6 ripe plums, quartered
and pits removed
1 cup water
3/4 cups sugar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Combine all of the ingredients in a small saucepot and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer about 10 minutes, stirring often. Remove from the heat and cool slightly. Transfer to a blender and purée until smooth. Pour the sorbet into a shallow pan, cover with plastic wrap and place it in the freezer. After about 2 hours there should be a ring of frozen sorbet beginning to form around the edges of the pan. Using a wire whisk, stir the frozen portion into the center; return to the freezer for another hour and repeat. If it freezes too firm it can be aerated by spinning it in a food processor for a few seconds then returning it to the freezer.

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