Classic American pub fare in a fun atmosphere in the heart of the Chippewa strip. Brink’s caters to the lunch and happy hour crowds with fresh wraps and burgers, 1/2 price appetizers (weekdays, 4-9pm) and handmade beers on tap. And it’s open late seven days a week, too. Party packages are available for larger groups.

The resurgence of W. Chippewa Street in recent years has been tied to its reputation as Party Central for the college/20-something crowd. With one or two notable exceptions, the redevelopment of Chippewa has been heavy on drink, short on food. There have been few restaurants to draw those whose primary focus is food, and Chippewa partiers have had few nice restaurants nearby when the munchies hit.

That balance shifted a bit with the late February opening of Brinks at 51 W. Chippewa.

Billed as a “classic American tavern,” this is not the first Brinks on the books in Buffalo. In the 1960s and ’70s there was a popular tavern by that name on Elmwood near Breckenridge. The owner was Dennis Brinkworth, father of Dennis Brinkworth who owns Brinks on W. Chippewa. Like his father did, Dennis the son also operates a second restaurant, Colter Bay Grill on Delaware Avenue at Allen Street; Brinkworth senior also operated the former Saratoga Restaurant on Delaware.

The younger Brinkworth, who once worked for Guinness as a consultant in the development of Irish pubs across the U.S., originally focused on Buffalo’s Cobblestone District as the site for a new Brinks. He envisioned an establishment located a stone’s throw from the Buffalo River with décor focusing on the history of Buffalo’s waterfront. In the end, Brinkworth opted to take his plans and theme to Chippewa, gutting and refurbishing the former House O’ Quinn, which had been in the family for more than 70 years.

Brinks is a handsome tavern/restaurant. The lofty ceiling features a treatment that looks like hammered tin; the walls in the front bar and back dining area are covered with dark bead-board paneling. Nostalgic black-and-white images of the Buffalo waterfront and grain mills that adorn the walls were collected from the archives of the Buffalo and Erie County Historical Society. There is seating for about 70 inside; and room for 70 more on a side terrace that faces Franklin Street.

The menu at Brinks is heavy on appetizers and sandwiches, a smart decision when survival includes appealing to downtown workers at lunchtime and revelers seven nights a week. The six entrées on the dinner menu are supplemented by evening specials written on the large blackboard in the rear dining room.

We started our dinner with two items from the “starters.” Crab cakes ($6.95) were lightly fried and served with a spicy remoulade and lightly dressed salad greens. The three cylindrical cakes, unfortunately, were heavy on breading. The better choice was the BBQ shrimp cocktail at $6.95. Five large shrimp were grilled and served cocktail-style, with a chiffonade of greens and cabbage, in a chunky glass with barbecue sauce on the bottom. This appetizer was very unusual and nothing short of terrific.

Other possible openers include “Brinks boxty wedges,” lightly fried potato wedges mixed with cheese, herbs and bacon and served with sour cream ($4.95); a spinach and artichoke dip with bread ($5.95) and three mini-cheeseburgers ($4.95).

We chose soup over a side salad with our meals and enjoyed cups of a delicious, deep-flavored Asian-style cabbage soup and a tasty gazpacho that was as thick as a salsa. Ordered a la carte, soups are available at $2.50 per cup, $2.95 for a bowl. The Brinks house salad ($6.75)—grilled veggies over a bed of mixed greens with a mustard tarragon vinaigrette—sounded inviting, as did the grilled tuna salad ($7.95) and chopped salad ($6.75) of mixed greens, grilled chicken, tomato, bacon and bleu cheese. The evening’s salad special was a spinach salad with fennel and orange vinaigrette ($7.95).

We selected two of the evening specials as our entrées. I thoroughly enjoyed the pan-seared salmon filet with soy and orange glaze that was served with wild rice ($15.95). The guest also liked his tender 12-ounce strip steak topped with a light Gorgonzola/cream cheese sauce ($16.25). Ordered with mash potatoes, it showed up accompanied by the wild rice. Both entrées came with lightly steamed stalks of fresh broccoli.

The other evening special was a mushroom-stuffed chicken breast with garlic sauce ($15.95). On the regular menu were grilled filet mignon ($16.95), linguini with fresh chopped tomatoes, olive oil, basil and garlic ($9.95), grilled tuna with a charred tomato vinaigrette ($13.95) and “Brinks pasta,” angel hair pasta with shrimp, artichokes and a white wine lemon sauce, at $11.95.

The 12 sandwiches on the menu include an 8-ounce grilled strip steak with provolone, onions and peppers on a hoagie roll ($8.95), a traditional pub club with turkey, bacon, cheese, tomato and lettuce on toasted bread ($5.95), a grilled ham and cheddar cheese with tomato and brown mustard ($5.75) and a cracked black peppercorn burger topped with cheddar, tomato and lettuce ($5.95). All sandwiches come with a choice of side order.

My guest ordered the house-made dessert, an espresso crème brûlée described as being “Kahlua-infused” ($4). It had a nice taste, but the consistency was more that of a pudding. My five-layered chocolate mousse cake ($4.50) was very good. Baked by Butterwood Gourmet Desserts, it was served with chocolate sauce and fresh raspberries.

Brinks is open from 11:30 am to 11 pm Sunday through Thursday, and 11:30 am to midnight on Friday and Saturday. The restaurant caters events and offers a fax take-out service. Sunday brunch with complimentary champagne and national newspapers is from 11:30 am to 3 pm. Noteworthy also is the fact that Brinks’ TVs can be tuned to international sports stations featuring British soccer and rugby matches.