In an old snapshot taken 40 or so years ago, my older sister and I are poised for the camera wearing our Easter outfits. My straight-cut bangs are the only signs of the pixie hairdo smashed beneath a pastel, straw hat. We are dressed exactly alike: white cotton gloves clutching miniature purses, patent leather shoes, white tights and lightweight, polyester, knee-length coats that button tightly over our chests and flare out at the bottom. The impression is of two edible children, coated in sugary styrofoam, as if we had just hopped out of a basket of candy. My sister is smiling, relaxed and amused, while I can just manage, with twisted lips and squinting eyes, a pitiful grimace. My right foot is rolled on its side and I look as though I may cry—or bolt.

When my friends see this picture today, they inevitably laugh at my awkwardness and the pained expression on my face, knowing full well that I could only be coerced into such an outfit. I laugh along with them, but there is a part of me that cringes at the remembrance. The recurring nightmare of every little tomboy growing up in the 1960s was Sunday church. All girls were required to wear dresses. Miserably, I would prepare myself, being careful not to pull a run in the hot, clinging tights and then squeezing my flat feet into narrow dress shoes that pinched with every step. Each Sunday, I suffered through the long, Latin sermons, wondering if I was going to faint before the priest set us loose.

This Easter Sunday, I happened to reflect upon my overly zealous disdain for all things artificial, including wine, and I wondered if it might not be related to that grimace captured so many years ago. Aligning my thoughts with those who have sacrificed throughout the long days of Lent—to you I raise my glass (which I have steadily been doing as a non-observer). More to the point, I would like to dedicate this column to all those parents who encourage their kids to be themselves and to the most difficult form of self-sacrifice: acceptance. May you live long, and find food and drink that is authentic and nurturing to both stomach and, dare I say, soul.

Recently, a dear customer, an elegant lady in her seventies, asked me if I might put together an assorted case of “authentic” (true to the varietal) wines as a gift for her adult daughter. Her daughter and son-in-law, eager-to-learn wine novices, requested a selection of wines that would serve as a guide to highly regarded wine regions of the world. They were beginning to distinguish between the major grapes, but they primarily drank California cabernet and Australian shiraz. Grown tired of drinking the same wines, they sought to expand their exposure to various styles and grapes.

This is a dream assignment for a wine geek. Putting together a “must-try” list of wines, with a 12-bottle limit, is a bit like formulating a literary canon. How does one choose which wines to include? Or worse, through omission, will I be guilty of subscribing to some prejudiced notion of “good wine”? Initially finding myself a bit daunted, I eventually dove in, setting as my mark the task of including as much diversity of wine styles as possible. This, I surmised, would give the couple an opportunity to assess the likes and dislikes of their own palate.

I divided the wines into two categories of wine styles—fruit forward and elegance. Fruit forward wines have a soft, rounder feel on the palate, while the wines in the elegance category are subtle, complex, never jammy or overly ripe, and ultimately may taste drier than the fruit forward wines. Given the recipients’ wine knowledge, I thought it would be helpful if the majority of wines in their gift pack stated the name of the grape on the label. I knew they had enjoyed the notoriously fruit forward wines of California and Australia, thus, I placed an emphasis on this style of red. The only other perimeter I had to follow was price. I was asked to keep the average bottle price at $10-$15. For the benefit of the readers who may search out these wines, I’ll give three choices per category. This will be the first in a series of columns that I will devote to the purpose of assembling a mixed case of wines with integrity.

Fruit Forward:

1. Malbec, Argentina: If you like cabernet sauvignon, then Malbec should not offend as it is also a full-bodied, powerful red: ’06 Alamos Malbec; ’06 Altos las Hormigas, ’06 Punto Final. ($10)

2. Carménère, Chile: Known as the “lost Bordeaux grape,” Carménère possesses lovely, red fruits and spices with an intensely fragrant nose: ’06 Viña Chocalán, ’06 Casillero del Diablo, ’06 Santa Rita Reserve or 120 series. ($7-$12)

3. Grenache/Shiraz blend, Australia: These are the same grapes used in Côtes-du-Rhône, but generally are much fruitier and higher in alcohol. If Côtes-du-Rhône were a Linzertorte, Grenache blends from Australia would be black raspberry ice cream: ’05 Kaesler GSM; ’04 Twelve Staves GSM; ’06 Heartland Stickleback. ($10-$17)

4. Zinfandel, California: Not off the beaten-track, but an ideal ambassador for the extroverted wines of California: ’06 Seven Deadly, Rosenblum XXIX, ’05 Sobon Hillside. ($10-$15)

5. Monastrell, Spain: Instead of the more expensive Rioja, I chose a medium to full bodied, dark red with excellent pricing to illustrate the great values currently available from Spain: ’05 Castaño; ’05 Barahonda; ’05 Luzon. ($8-$10)

6. Viognier, California: A full-bodied, tropical, fruit-packed substitute for Chardonnay: ’06 Bridlewood; ’06 Michael and David Vineyards “Incognito”; ’06 Sobon. ($12-$15)

Elegance:

7. Pinot Noir, Oregon: Oregon pinot noir, while not as famous as Burgundy, is producing world-class examples of the grape and the labels are easier to read: ’06 A to Z; ’05 Stringtown; ’06 O’Reillys. ($15-$19)

8. Côtes-du-Rhône, France: A personal favorite, I find that Côtes-du-Rhônes (Grenache/Shiraz blend) offer more nuanced complexity and flavor than most any other wine region at the $10-$15 price point. Also, compatible with most foods: ’05 Domaine “La Garrigue” Cuvée Romaine, ’04 Rasteau Tradition Côtes-du-Rhône Villages, ’05 Dom. Les Grands Bois “Cuvée Les Trois Soeurs.” ($10-$15)

9. Sangiovese, Italy: Although, Chianti is the most famous area for Sangiovese-based wines (by law they must be at least 75 percent Sangiovese), I’ve chosen a wine from Umbria as my first choice. The 2005 La Carraia exhibits a bit more body and ripeness of fruit than your standard Chianti. A delicious value. Also, ’05 Falesco, ’06 Di Majo Norante, Italy. ($10-$12)

10. Bordeaux, France: As an introduction to the world’s most famous region, I chose a merlot-dominated Bordeaux AC from a great vintage: ’05 Château Marot, Ch. Vieilles Souches, Ch. Brandey, or any other ’05. ($8-$10)

11. Gewürztraminer (translates from German to “spicy Traminer”): One of the most distinctive of all wine grapes, the wines are indeed spicy and aromatic with litchi nuts, roses, cloves, pears, pink grapefruit and so on. Affords a remarkable tasting experience:’04 Barth René, France; ’06 Handley, California; ‘07 Emiliana Natura (organically grown), Chile. ($9-$18)

12. Sauvignon Blanc: New Zealand sauvignon blancs are currently flooding the US market, receiving ample attention from both retailer and restaurateur. Thus, I prefer to direct wine enthusiasts back to the region that established the standard for world-class sauvignon blancs. From the Loire Valley, the best wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé are, to many a connoisseur, unsurpassable in quality; but, for bargain hunters, a little appellation called Quincy can provide thrilling quality: ’06 Domaine Mardon Quincy Cuvée très Vieilles Vignes, ’05 Hubert Veneau Pouilly Fumé, ’06 Château de Sancerre. ($15-$20)