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Vegetable's Strong Arm

I can still hear my mother telling me to eat my vegetables, much in the same way that I tell my teenage son today. But what she really should have said was don’t forget to eat your Brassica oleracea var. botrytis, because it’s really, really nutritious. Or, in other words: Eat your broccoli because it’s good and good for you.

It’s interesting how a person’s tastes change from childhood to adulthood, what they like and don’t like. When I was a kid, eating vegetables held the same appeal as doing homework. As a teenager I thought eating the soggy leaf of iceberg lettuce on my hamburger was enough, and the same was true for the few celery and carrot sticks alongside chicken wings.

Adulthood brought a more discerning view of vegetables. Their healthful properties go without saying, and as a professional cook I also enjoy their versatility. Over the years I have grown to love vegetables, and have flirted with vegetarianism on more than one occasion. The vegetable that I am particularly fond of is broccoli. Apparently I’m not alone. The average American eats 900 percent more broccoli today than they did two decades ago, which translates to an average consumption of 4.5 pounds per person annually (opposed to a measly eight ounces 20 years ago). This, of course, is a good thing because broccoli is one of the most healthful and nutritious vegetables available.

Everyone knows that vegetables are good for you, but broccoli is at the top of the list. It is extremely rich in vitamins, high in fiber, and low in fat and calories (3.5 ounces of broccoli contains only 28 calories). Vegetables that are dark in color are loaded with vitamins, and the dark green color in broccoli translates to vitamin A and vitamin C. In fact, one serving of broccoli will supply you with 200 percent of your daily requirement of vitamin C. What’s more, the calcium level of broccoli is said to rival that of milk.

The most incredible thing about broccoli, I think, is that research has indicated that it may actually be anti-carcinogenic. Broccoli is a cruciferous vegetable; in other words, it’s a member of the cabbage family, which also includes cabbage (of course), brussels sprouts, cauliflower, chard, kale, rutabagas, turnips, etc. All of these vegetables are high in phytochemicals, which are natural substances found in plants (the word “phyto” is a Greek word for plant). What’s important about phytochemicals is that they appear to offer the body protection against certain types of cancers, and they’re also beneficial in prevention of heart disease.

What else is interesting is that while broccoli may have been in existence for a really long time—supposedly since pre-Christian times—it is a relative newcomer to our country. It was first introduced in England, via the Mediterranean region, and later America, where it was sometimes called “little asparagus” because of its shoot-like appearance. Some say that the first broccoli grown in our country was in the backyards of Italian Immigrants. I’m sure there are plenty of backyard gardens around Connecticut Street that have seen their share of broccoli. The word broccoli is originally derived from the Latin, brachium, loosely meaning arm or branch, and more directly from the Italian, brocco, which bears the same meaning.

Whatever the case, it didn’t take long for the vegetable to go mainstream. Today America is one of the largest producers of broccoli in the world.

Because of its year-round prevalence it may seem that broccoli doesn’t have an actual growing season, but like all vegetables it does. Broccoli’s peak season is through the winter months, specifically October to March. When purchasing broccoli, look for heads with tight and compact clusters that are dark green, sometimes with a hint of purple. Avoid those that are yellowed and are open and dry.

Spaghetti Aglio e Olio con Broccoli
(Spaghetti with garlic, oil, and broccoli)

Yield: 4 servings

3/4 pound spaghetti
1/2 cup virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon crushed hot pepper
1/2 cup chicken or vegetable broth
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 cups chopped broccoli florets
2 tablespoons grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Cook the spaghetti and drain it. Heat the olive oil in a heavy skillet with the garlic and hot pepper flakes. When the garlic just starts to change color add the chicken broth and salt. Cook the broth for one minute, until it reduces by half, and then add the broccoli. Toss and turn the spinach for a few minutes. Add the cooked spaghetti, and stir it until thoroughly coated with the other ingredients. Stir in the cheese just before serving.

Penne with Ragù of Broccoli & Cannelini Beans

Yield: 4 portions

3 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1/2 small onion, peeled and diced
1 cup cooked cannellini beans
6 ounces chicken broth
1/2 cup prepared tomato sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 heads broccoli, cut into bite-sized pieces
3/4 pound ribbed penne
4 tablespoons grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Heat the olive oil in a heavy saucepot over medium heat. Add the garlic and onion and cook while stirring for a few minutes, until it is translucent but not caramelized. Add the beans, then stir in the chicken broth, tomato sauce, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil, then lower to a slow simmer. Cook the sauce for 10-15 minutes.

Cook the pasta. While the pasta is cooking add the broccoli to the sauce. Once the pasta is cooked drain it and add it to the ragu. Add the cheese and stir the pasta until it’s coated with sauce and cheese.

Broccoli Slaw
(A great way to utilize stems)

Remove and discard the bottom inch of the stems. Using a paring knife, peel the tough skin from the stems, and then grate them on a vegetable grater. Place them in a bowl with a little grated fresh carrot and onion. Fold in just enough mayonnaise to coat the vegetables, and season with vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate the slaw for 30 minutes.

Broccoli & Bean Curd with Ginger, Garlic, & Hot Peppers

Yield: 4 servings

4 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
2 tablespoons cornstarch
4 heads broccoli, cut into florets
12 ounces firm tofu, sliced into
1-inch pieces
1 cup vegetable oil (for frying)
1 small onion, sliced
1 red bell pepper, julienned
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1 teaspoon crushed hot pepper
1-1/2 cups chicken broth

In a small bowl combine the soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, and cornstarch. Mix to dissolve the cornstarch and set aside. Par-cook the broccoli boiling water, then drain it and cool it under cold running water.

Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a large skillet. Carefully add the tofu and cook it on both sides until golden brown. Remove the tofu and transfer to absorbent paper. Carefully pour most of the oil into a separate pan (or other safe container), leaving just enough oil to stir fry in. Heat the pan and add the onion and bell pepper. Sauté the vegetables until they begin to caramelize. Add the garlic, ginger, and hot peppers. Sauté for another minute or two.

Stir in the chicken broth; bring it to a boil, then stir in the soy-cornstarch mixture. Bring it to a simmer, then add the broccoli and bean curd. Stir and toss it to evenly coat it with sauce. Continue to heat the pan just until the broccoli is heated throughout.

Cream of Broccoli & Cheddar Soup

Yield: about 3 quarts

4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup diced onions
1/2 cup diced celery
1/2 cup diced carrots
2 teaspoons minced garlic
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons black pepper
1/2 cup flour
4 cups chicken broth
3 cups chopped broccoli
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

Sauté the onion, celery, and carrots, over medium heat in the butter or olive oil for 5 minutes, then add the garlic and sauté for another minute or two. Stir in the flour and cook over medium/low heat for 5-10 minutes. Add the chicken broth, stir with a whisk to remove any lumps. Stir in the broccoli. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Add the heavy cream simmer 2 minutes, then add the cheese and stir until melted. Puree in a food processor or blender.

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